时间：2020-05-21 点击：1207次
1. Personal background of the designer
Shangguan Zhe was born in Fujian Province in 1984. He graduated at Xiamen University in 2007, majored in visual cmmunication. Despite the lack of a systematic training in fashion, leaning on his knowledge, understanding and passion of fashion, arts and music, Zhe created his own brand of men’s clothing – Sankuanz – in 2013.
2. Introduction of the brand (2013-2019)
In 2013, Sankuanz showed its first collection at Shanghai Fashion Week.
Sankuanz 2013AW, inspired by tradition Tibetan clothing and religious culture, destructed and reconstructed some contemperary garments, combined with a religiously symbolic palette and embriodery details of religious symbols. This collection created a artificial contemporary religion with a burlesco touch, presenting the tradition culture in a modernized form, which allowed Sankuaz to become one of the most outstanding brands at Shanghai Fashion Week of that year and also received a lot of attention.
In 2014, Sankuanz launched its collection of 2014AW, entitle In the Hell. This season continues the burlesco tone and expressed his fashion attitude of “out of the frame”. The garments corresponded further with trends of the time and provided the youth with a new choice of domestic fashion brand. In June, with the support of GQ China, Sankuanz had its International debut show at London Men’s Week. For the season of 2015SS, entitled “The Square”, Zhe created pieces mainly in black and white, decorated with striking graffiti and accessories, presenting his bold reinterpretation of the youth culture, one of his obsessions. This season successfully expanded the influence of Sankuanz to the international level, marking the first step to an international fashion brand.
In 2015, Sankuanz showed its collections of 2015AW and 2016SS in London. Collaboration shoes of Sankuanz with Vans were also released at the show of 2015AW, gaining much attention at the time. From Shanghai to London, with continuous creativity and growing maturity in its design language, Sankuanz gradually made its way onto the international stage. Sankuanz also became shortlisted for the LVMH Prize for young designers, one of the most authoritative awards in the world of fashion.
In 2016, Shangguan Zhe was listed in BoF 500. As one of the most authoritative professional media in fashion, BoF selects annually 500 figures in the fashion business around the globe. After being listed for the first time in 2016, Zhe has maintained his spot on the list so far. Also in that year, Sankuanz has moved its show to Paris Men’s Week, the most influential event among the four main fashion weeks, indicating the undoubted potential of the brand.
The seasons of 16AW and 17SS gained Sankuaz a place in the very competitve Paris. In 2017, Sankuanz was added to the official calendar of Paris Men’s Week. Sankuanz shows regularly at Paris Men’s Week and its business value became more and more recognized. During the show of 18SS, a collaboration wristwatch “Tundra”, created by G-SHOCK and Sankuanz, was released. There was also a special exhibition for this collaboration at the show, realized by the creative team of Random Studio. The exhibition recreated an environment of snowy mountains and tundra, the theme of the collaboration, bringing visitors a direct experience of the concept. Followed was a press event for the collaboration in China, and a live show of “Brotherhood Concert” and rappers such as Bridge and Dough-boy, with the attendance of many media, KOL and visitors.
In January 2018, Sankuanz released the season of 18AW in Paris. This collection, entitled “Kill the Wall”, signified the war of everyone, no matter she or he is faced with substantial obstacles, regimes or a terrifying future. This season also marked the point at which Sankuanz gradually found a clear design language, completing the stage of attempts and exploration. The concepts of Denfense and Attack, Destruction and Protection were instilled into pieces like military-style suits and tights. The brand new design of Shoes for Shoes for this theme became a hit topic on the social networks and were sold out in the U.S. in just three weeks. The collaboration footwear of Sankuanz with Onitsuka Tiger GSM, named Asian Union, were also shown. This pair of shoes was printed with the word of Asia in the languages of Chinese, Japanese and Korean, echoing the theme. Before its official release, a party named “The United Agency of Asia” was held at ALL CLUB in Shanghai, with interactive installations and electronic live by DJ such as Andy Scott and Charity. The collaboration footwear was immediately sold out after its release.
The season of 2019SS, released in June of the same year, herited the theme of Kill the Wall. The concept of Defense and Attack reemerged and became elevated to the fashion level. A perfect combination of sportswear and the urban style is reflected in the transformed body armour, finely tailored suits and leather pieces, first-time-ever jeans, vests with metal links combined with jackets. The signature Shoes for Shoes came with new colors. A capsule collection of Sankuanz in collaboration Puma was also released at this season. For the first collaboration of Puma with a Chinese brand, there were four footwears products as well as ready-to-wear clothing for men and women, on sale from February 2019 at the flagship stores of Puma and selected multi-brand boutiques.
At the Paris Men’s Week in January 2019, Sankuanz showed its collection for 19AW at the Sotheby’s Paris. As the top auction house around the world, Sotheby collaborated for the first time with a fashion brand. During the show, Sankuanz presented It's artifical underwater squad, Drown 52, with several looks of Sankuanz uniforms. Drown 52, tasked with the exploaration of underwater territories, symbolizes people diving deeply into the Internet or the reality, expressing reflections on the modern society. Zhe decorated belts, collars and bags with dagger-like metal accessories, adding some richness to the details. Bold blade-like jewelry, earrings with an Air-pod style and silver claw-like rings and gloves echoed the concept of Attack, while double-layered, pants, new design of body armour and printed tights pointed to the idea of Defense. Sankuanz created several women’s look, which was a first in the brand’s history. Models wearing shiny black leather blazer, layers of bomber jackets or tight zipped leather clothing looked equally sharp as men’s looks. The collaboration with Herschel Supply, the Canadian brand of bags resulted in the creation of some multi-function bags, inspired by military diving equipment. This collection will be released in the fall of 2019 at Herschel.com and selected global retailers. Moreover, a collaboration collection with the American media company 88rising was also released at the show. 88rising manages artists such as Rich Brian, High Brothers, Chris Wu and Jackson Wang Ka-Yee, making it very well known in the world of rap in the U.S. and around the world. This was the first collaboration of 88rising with a fashion brand. The sale of this collection will start in August 2019. Sankuanz will also organize a launch party with 88rising.
On the evening of the show of 2019AW, Sankuanz held a global launch party in collaboration with Puma. The Swiss artistic team Supermafia was invited to create a installation of sound and light for the event. The afterparty attracted more figures from international media and the business of fashion with the attendance of the famous DJ Clara 3000 and Genome 6.66MBP, who participated in the promotional video shooting for the capsule collection, and Doughboy. After the release event in Paris, Puma held another release event for China at the CONCEPTS, a multi-brand sneaker store at Xintiandi of Shanghai. The theme of the event followed Sankuanz’s main collection concept “Kill the Wall”. This collection sold very well globally.
During the Paris Men’s Week in June, Sankuanz surprised all with another collaboration: a recreation of Timberland’s signature 6-inch boots. The signature printed duvet jacket of Sankuanz was also launched. This limited collection will be on sale at selected retailers in December 2019.
In 2020, Sankuanz will start a two-season global collaboration with Adidas in footwear and apparels. Adidas will launch promotional events in Tokyo at the 100 Days Countdown to the Tokyo Olympic Games. The products are expected to be on sale in the fragship stores and multi-brand boutiques in the summer of 2020.
3. Arts, music and culture
As a fashion brand, Sankuanz is also well known among music and art lovers. The brand manages to connect these groups with fashion shows, artistic collaborations and music parties, building a cultural group for Sankuanz.
Sankuanz has collaborated with artists like Xu Zhen, Jin Ningning, Zuoxiao Zuzhou, combining fashion and arts, creating more possibilities for the design and the expression of clothing.
Besides clothing, Sankuanz is also exploring alternatives of collaborations with artists. In 2016, Sankuanz partnered with Zhangding and his label CON TROL CLUB, creating an installation at the Brotherhood Concert. During the Shanghai Fashion Week for the spring of 2019, Sankuanz teamed up with CON TROL CLUB again, presenting the project of DISIKOU, holding a performance and an afterparty at the circular space of TANK Shanghai. The event was based on the work Hypercube by Zhang Ding, building a mandala-like installation for the space, added with live performance by the experimental sound artist Anadopin and the dj Pandoras Jukebox.
Supermafia, a Swiss artistic team, is also among the long-term partners with Sankuanz. At the Shanghai Fashion Week of 2017, Sankuanz launched a conceptual art show in collaboration with Supermafia. The vast space of Onetime Show was transformed into a artificial museum of fine arts, named Center Sankuanz. On the lauching day, a sound installation and the performance Enlightment immersed the audience in an experiencee of a artificial religion. At the global release party of Puma and Sankuanz in January 2019, Supermafia created an installation of sound and light for the theme, combining business and arts flawlessly.
Zhe is continuously experimenting in the fields of fashion, arts and music, making him stand on the same ground with the youth culture. For this reason, he was appointed as the Editor-in-Chief for the magazine of YOHO!. The Group of YOHO! appreciated Zhe’s global perspective and knowledge of the youth in and outside the country, and also his own ideas of fashion and trends. YOHO! would like to take this opportunity to explore more possibilities of media expression and more distinct ideas. Right from his first day in the office, Zhe transformed the magazine greatly, with a new visual design and layout, and more columns corresponding the current status of the youth and more contents related to arts and culture. The magazine now explores the youth with more depth and more readability.
4. Commercial sales
Sankuaz is currently stocked in more than 30 retailers in collaboration around the world, among others, I.T., Joyce, Galeries Lafayette, Ssense, Opening Ceremony, Browns, H Lorenzo and Gr8.
5. Celebrity influence
The unique style and international profile of Sankuanz has made it a favorite of domestic and international celebrities. Some of the celebrity wearing Sankuanz are Offset, Tyga, Rihanna, Chris Brown, Big Sean, Charli Xcx, Bella Hadid, Chris Wu, Lu Han, Chris Lee, Jackson Yee.
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